Phosphates. . .We’re gonna miss ya! Signed: Your Dishwasher

 

Phunnies:

A mathematician, an accountant, and an economist are applying for the same job.  The HR person asked the mathematician “What does three plus three equal?”.  The mathematician answered “Six”.  The same question was asked of the accountant, who answered “On average, six, give or take a few percentage points.”  Of course, the interviewer also asked the economist “What does three plus three equal?”.  The economist got up and walked over the the interviewer. He whispered in the interviewer’s ear “What do you want it to equal?”

Phacts and Philosophy:

Without much fanfare, in the summer of 2010, phosphates were removed from dishwasher detergents.  Particularly with the hard water we have on the Central Coast, many people are experiencing poor  washing results with their dishwashers.

 

This all started in Washington state, who instituted the phosphate ban in order to save fish.  You see, phosphates, after they go down the drain, are dumped into bodies of water.  Unfortunately, they provide the perfect environment for the growth of algae blooms, which prosper and use up the available oxygen in the water, killing the fish populations.  As of now, there are 17 states(I think) that ban phosphates.

 

If you remember the fairly recent “dead fish incident”  in Redondo Beach, California, tons of fish were found dead in the harbor.  It was thought to be caused by just this type of algae bloom.

So, what does this mean to you?  Well, first of all, you are already used to “No Phosphates”.  That’s right, many years ago they were banned from clothes washing detergents.  This tidbit may not not help your dishwashing performance; I just wanted you to know that eventually this won’t be a big deal.

The most important item in any dishwasher doing a good job hasn’t changed. . .it’s water temperature.   One problem with that is when there are children in the house.  Many parents turn the heat down on the water heater to prevent scalding.  This may be great for the kids. . .not so much for the dishwasher.  Most of the codes recommend outlet hot water temperature not to exceed 120 degrees.  Dishwasher manufacturers would like to see closer to 140 degrees.  Moms want 110 degrees.

First, what is your hot water temperature now?  Most people don’t have thermometers handy, but a good rule of thumb for getting close to 120 degrees is that once the water at the sink is hot, you should be able to stick your hand under it, but not be able to keep it there for more than a few seconds.  I just did that test at my kitchen sink, and it seemed plenty hot.  I then checked the actual temperature (because, of course, I have one of those handy thermometers) and it was 119 degrees.

So what do we do to counter the lack of phosphates?  First, run the hot water at your sink faucet until it is hot, before you turn on the dishwasher.  Second, don’t run the dishwasher right after or during the time that you are using the washing machine or taking showers.  Third has to do with dishwasher detergents.  Just like with clothes washing detergents, the major manufacturers spend a lot of money on researching the right formulas that will work with our new energy saving appliances.  It’s not just hype.  In fact, most consumer surveys on this subject show that the Finish and Cascade brands in the little packets do the best job.   And last, you will need to monthly (or more often) clean the inner workings of your dishwasher.  You can use white vinegar or any of a number of products, many of which are citrus based.  Simply run the dishwasher (empty of dishes) with the cleaner of your choice.

Be patient.  It won’t take too long for the soap manufacturers to get the optimum formula for new detergents.

If you find that you need an actual repair to your dishwasher (or any other appliance) you can schedule an appointment at www.hotaircoldair.com

Do Good,

Rich Johnson

 

Life After Fifty and “Can’t We All Just Get Along???”

My niece, Betsy Mosmiller, and her husband John live in Baltimore.  They were hiking in the woods recently when they encountered a pretty good sized bear.  Betsy quickly started changing out her hiking boots to running shoes while John (scared to death) was yelling at her “what the heck are you doing? You’ll never outrun that bear!”  As Betsy finished lacing up her Reboks and stood up, she simply said “I don’t have to outrun the bear, I just have to outrun you”, and off she went.  Luckily, they are still both with us.

 

If you’re looking for helpful Appliance, Heating, Air Conditioning, and home repair tips, you can either look at the older posts, or as Snagglepuss would say “exit stage right!”  One of the “bennies” of writing stuff that few people read is that you can change subjects without too much complaint.  Complain if you wish, but I am waxing philosophical.

When I turned fifty in 2002, I was super excited about the rest of my life.  I plan to live until I am 100 years old (at which time I will start drinking again!).  I had fifty years behind me and fifty years ahead of me.  I had an entire second lifetime ahead of me, without having to deal with all of the trial and tumult of the first twenty years.  How freaking exciting!

Fast forward to 2011.  I will turn 59 in a couple months.  I’m not sure whether it’s just an age thing, the death and illness of friends and family, or the fast approach of the magical age of 65, but something has changed my perspective.  I am a little more fearful of the future and I consider my mortality.  I have never really given much thought to death, mine at least.  The death part is no problem for me.  We are born, we live, then we go to the earth (or heaven, or purgatory, or paradise with virgins, depending on your beliefs).  No problem.

So what do I do for the rest of my life, whatever amount of time that is?  I have been giving more thought to the adage that “It’s not the destination that’s important, it’s the journey”, and how true that is.  This was brought right up front last week when my wife’s brother-in-law, died from lung disease.  Now, this was for all intents and purposes a healthy and active, retired military man.  Dead at 75.  My own parents both died at the age of 77, not very old by today’s standards, and 23 years short of my martini!  My wife, Jennifer, and I traveled to Pennsylvania for “Uncle Hank’s” funeral.

Funerals are for the living.  Yeah, it’s an opportunity to review all the bitchin’ things the dead person did, and how much you loved them, but more importantly for me it’s a time to see family that many times don’t get together. . .except at weddings and funerals.  What I brought back from this visit were the two following mandates: 1)  Spend more time with friends and family, and 2)  Do good (as Uncle Hank did while he was alive).  If I follow these mantras, I can’t help but enjoy the rest of my journey.

This next part may not seem totally related, but it is.  I say so!  Now, whether you are anti or pro Obama, I don’t think you can argue with the president’s request in his speech in Tucson, Arizona, after the senseless shooting that claimed a number of lives in January. My interpretation is that he asked politicians to tone down their rhetoric and vitriol.  He asked that both liberals and conservatives work with each other with respect, while disagreeing.  This would go a long way toward making this country’s journey a successful one.  There is no good reason we can’t do as Rodney King asked “Can’t we all just get along?”.   We have a great country, but many people need to spend more time with family and friends and doing good.  I’m going to start with me.  You start with you.

With any luck, my next post will provide you with an ever-exciting tip, procedure or comment on Heating, Air Conditioning, Appliance Repairs, or General Contracting on the Central Coast of California.  Until then. . .do good.

Rich Johnson

 

 

 

When you’re cold “KISS” Keep It Simple Stupid!

This was our Christmas in San Luis Obispo County, taken recently in Pismo Beach!

Hayley Townley, a good customer, acquaintance, and  local Real Estate broker, seems to celebrate as if it were Christmas every day!  She’s smart as a whip too!  She was once showing a property to a prospective buyer.  There was no fence and the buyer wanted to know where the property line was, but didn’t want the expense of a land survey.  ” If you want to know exactly where the property line is”, she told the buyer, “just come back after the rains and watch where the neighbor cut his grass.”

Exuberant is the perfect word to describe Hayley.  100% fun and 100% full of life.  And this is AFTER her battle with breast cancer, which she is winning after a number of years.  Hayley is a big supporter of Breast Cancer awareness and would like everyone to know that there is great support at www.ThereIsLifeAfterBreastCancer.com, for survivors and their loved ones.  Locally there is also a winery that is passionate about lending a hand too.  Check out www.CleavageCreek.com.  Further evidence of Hayley’s “Loving Life”  philosophy is her saying “Boobs may come, and boobs may go, but funny lasts forever”.  Thanks, Hayley for your spirit!  You can learn more about Hayley and her company Comet Realty at www.CometRealty.com

12/31/10  I don’t know about where you are, but we have been freakin’ cold here on the central coast lately, and of course we are getting many calls to repair furnaces and warm up families.  I would like to take a moment to maybe save you the cost of a Service Call.  We get a fair number of “No Heat” calls that could be easily fixed by homeowners.  These have to do with your thermostat, and your filter.

First, if your thermostat has a digital display, it is likely powered by batteries (some are powered by wiring from the furnace, but they are few in number).  Even if you can read the display information, you may need to change the batteries.  In most cases, this involves removing the cover to the thermostat, and underneath, finding the battery compartment.  You may need a small screw driver or a finger nail file to “Pop” the cover off.  Please note the orientation (plus and minus) of the old batteries in their holder BEFORE you remove them.  There is usually some little drawing or indication of the proper battery placement, but I find them hard to read or even locate.  KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) and look at the old ones before removal.  The most common battery size is “AA”, and if you are like me, you probably have a couple in your junk drawer.  In quite a few thermostats, you must “reset” the thermostat after changing the batteries, if they were completely dead.  There will be a little (usually black) button on the thermostat circuit board somewhere  with the word “RESET” printed next to it.  Don’t worry if you don’t see one, maybe your’s doesnt need it. Just see if your heater now turns on.   After resetting, you will need to reprogam times and temperatures in your thermostat, assuming you use the program feature.  Most programmable thermostats are pre-programmed for a normal working persons schedule.

Another problem that can be solved without professional service is changing the filter.  You SHOULD do this at least twice a year for a furnace only, and four times a year if you also have air conditioning.  A great way to remember is to change the filter (and your smoke alarm batteries) at the change of daylight savings time.  This minimally gets you two filter changes a year.  Anyway, if you haven’t changed or cleaned your filter since Alaska became a state, that may be the problem.  When the filter is clogged, it causes heat to back up inside the furnace, and it shuts itself off, sensing the overheat condition (even on very old furnaces) due to reduced air flow.  If your furnace stops, find and look at your filter.  Make sure you examine both sides. Sometimes it may appear ok on one side, but be virtually 100% blocked on the other side.  After changing or cleaning your filter, it may be necessary to turn the thermostat to the off position, then turn it on again.  By turning it off, the control board inside the furnace resets itself so it will try starting up again.  Some furnaces will automatically reset after the temperature inside the furnace falls to normal levels.

If none of the above works, call a professional Heating Contractor.  If you live in Northern Santa Barbara County, or most anywhere in San Luis Obispo County, that would be us, Peoples Choice Heating & Air, and Appliance Repair.

Have a very happy (and warm) New Year in 2011!

Rich Johnson

Contractor Estimates and Why they differ

My friend, and San Luis Obispo County Realtor, Paul Buschur, got his start in the early 90′s .  He was just offered a job at an upscale local restaurant and the owner said he would be paid $10 an hour to start and raise it to $14 an hour in three months.  Paul accepted the job and the owner asked him when he wanted to start.  Paul said ” in three months” . . .and that was when Paul had the opportunity to enter the Real Estate field!  If you want a good Realtor now (or in three months) you can contact Paul at www.slorealestate.com

Quotes or Estimates for Work or Products:  Everyone has heard “Always get more than one quote”

If you have done this, you know that they can be vastly different, but why?  There are three basic things to consider, and they actually hold true for any service or product you buy.  They are Price, Quality, and Speed. You get to have two.  Price & Quality; Price & Speed; Quality & Speed.

To get quality, you must pay more.  To get speed you must pay more.  Both of these things involve costs to any business.  To get a low price you must be prepared to either wait for the quality service, or give up some amount of quality for speedier service or job.  Of course, non of these is black and white, and that’s what makes decision making difficult.

It also leads to the reason that many people never take the lowest or the highest bid for a project or product.  Here is my profile of the types of personalities, and how they choose a bid or quote:

People who are extremely thrifty or have very limited budgets are most likely to take the lowest bid.  They are usually aware that they may be sacrificing some quality, or may have to put up with delays, and are content with that in order to save money.

Some people simply want the best.  They are usually aware that they could pay less with some sacrifice of quality or speed, but are unwilling to compromise, for whatever reason.  They will many times take the highest bid, if it coincides with their opinion of the professionalism of the company or individual.

Most people fall somewhere in between, and ponder over how to balance their desire for quality and get a job or product in a timely manner.  These are the difficult decisions.

As an example, lets say that a couple get several estimates for a new roof to be installed.  They tell each of the contractors that they want a composition shingle.  They discard the high quote of $10,000, and the low quote of $5000.  Now you must decide whether to take the quote of $6500 or $7500.

Assuming both “middle” bids come with good references, at the very least, you should feel comfortable with the person you are dealing with.  You don’t have to be best buds, but you have to feel you are being listened to, and that the responses to your questions make you confident that your concerns will be addressed.  If this person is not actually on the job site, are they readily available for questions or problems that may arise?  Are the materials for the two quotes the same?  Are there extras included in the higher quote that will improve the job or product, or make the end product last longer or perform better?  Do you want the extras?  How do the warranties compare (not just for the equipment, but for any associated labor)?  When can the work or product be delivered or completed?

If you chose the $7500 bid, you are satisfied that you are receiving extra value, whether that be in speed of delivery, quality of the end product, or even the ease of dealing with that company or individual.  If you chose the $6500 bid, you didn’t need the extras.  Possibly the two bids were so similar that the lower one just represented a good savings.  Make no mistake, with either of the “middle” bids, you are making some type of sacrifice over the $10,000 bid.

Now that I’m ending this post, I realize that I left you where you started. So sorry!  Bottom line, absolutely take the time to get at least two estimates, and trust your instincts about the person you are dealing with.  He or she is a representation of what you are buying.  Whenever possible, ask friends and co-workers for referrals.  At the minimum, look for reviews of anyone who does a bid for you.

Good luck, take your time.  Patience will be rewarded.

If you want a quote/estimate from Peoples Choice for installation or replacement or Heating or Air Conditioning, there is no charge.  We also give free estimates for Duct Weasel dryer vent cleaning.  Contact us at peopleschoiceservices.com or hotaircoldair.com

Rich Johnson

Larger Size Laundry Solutions/Problems

10/31/10  My brother-in-law, Bill Bowman, told me that a good friend of his had died recently and that the he didn’t attend the funeral.  I asked him why he hadn’t gone, and Bill said “He’s not coming to mine, so I’m not going to his!”

So, you absolutely love the new larger, energy efficient laundry units, but they don’t quite fit into the laundry space.

The biggest problem is with the dryer.  The most critical part of any dryer is the venting system.  This carries moisture out of the dryer on air flow, to the outside of the house.  Heat is just a helper.  The heated water vapor is more easily transported on the air current.  You can get the dryer as hot as you want, but if the air flow out the venting is restricted, you will have drying problems such as: too long to dry or clothes wet at the end of a cycle.  The other problem you could have that you may not even know, is robbing you of precious energy.  The dryer may be detecting that the clothes are not dry, and simply extending the drying time, using up electricity and/or gas unnecessarily.

The reason this happens may be that the depth of you new dryer (measured from front to back).  The dryer venting is typically 4″ round.  It is important that you use a good elbow or gently curve the dryer venting from the back of the dryer to the exit point at the wall.  Most venting is not rigid, and you can easily crush and restrict by pushing the dryer too far in.  This may be for aesthetic reasons, or to allow opening/closing of a door.

A couple of ways you can overcome this.  First, measure your new laundry equipment carefully.  Make sure that you have the space you need, and plan for any changes ahead of your purchase.  There are is a product made by a couple of different companies that will give you and extra 3 inches to work with.  It is approximately 30″ long and 3 .5 inches deep (the width of a 2×4 wall stud).  It installs recessed into the wall space behind the dryer, and allows the flexible dryer vent duct to be kind of folded into the wall space.  The existing dryer ducting is connected to this product either at the top, or at the bottom.  It does require some “remodeling” of the laundry wall, but is sometimes the only way you can functionally install your new laundry pair.  They also have room for the gas connection, although as a retrofit, this will add a fair amount of work to the installation of the product, and as long as the gas line is not causing a problem, leave it as is.

There are also “telescoping” dryer vent connectors that only require a depth of 2 1/2 inches, which saves you 1 1/2 inches off the normal 4″ sizing.  Because they are wider, the air capacity is the same as a 4″ inch round dryer duct.  Their downside is that the installation can be a pain, and because of acute angles, they do somewhat restrict air flow.

An extreme option, though sometimes the only option, is to install a custom vent that aligns with your new dryer precisely.  You slide the dryer into this vent that would typically stick out from the wall only an inch.  These require precise installation, and would not be recommended without looking at other options.

One of those “other options” would be re-routing your dryer vent system so that it enters the laundry area at a point that both allows you to connect without restriction, and allows your dryer to be pushed back far enough to not cause any door or aesthetic problems.  If you have a dead space or closet behind the laundry, you might be able to utilize this space as an access point for a close-in dryer vent and/or gas connection.  If your vent goes down and out, maybe you could go up  and out.  This would typically fall into the category that will get you a free estimate from a contractor like us to find out what you options and costs are.

Please feel free to email me from our website:  peopleschoiceservices.com, with any questions you have, or if you might need a Duct Weasel service on your dryer vent system, pretty much anywhere on the Central Coast.  Chow!  Rich Johnson

Bigger is not necessarily Better!

9/30/10

First, a short note about the metamorphosis of my blog.  The first thing you’ll get in my newsletter/blog is one of many Central Coast photos I have taken, that I hope you will enjoy.  If that’s all you open this for, I will be happy.  Along with that will be a teeny humorous anecdote about one of my acquaintances.

Bill Isaman, well respected local architect, and part time philosopher,  suggests:
“Give a man a fish and he’ll eat for a day. . . . . Teach a man to fish and ………………………….he’ll sit in a boat and drink beer all day.  You can check out Bill’s work at “isamandesign.com”

• I have a small one, my friend Bill Isaman, the Architect, has a big one.

• Some of my friends I can’t speak for (since I’ve never seen theirs).

• I have to admit, some of my buddies probably don’t even know where theirs’ is!

I know what you’re thinking, that you are happy with the size of yours, as long as it does the job.  Well, that’s exactly where the size problem comes in, if it is too large, it may have trouble getting the job done. And, newer ones tend to be larger. A couple of inches could be critical!  How would you like it if you got a new one and it sticks out too far?  Or, because it’s too long it just doesn’t work.

How far could I drag this on?  not much farther if I want you to keep reading, plus the fact that my wife, Jen, said “Ok that’s enough, end the parody already”.

I am talking, of course about the size of new washers, and especially new dryers.  We get a number of repair calls having to do with the size of new laundry appliances, and in most cases, the sets that include a front loading washer.  Prior to writing this blog, I went down to the local appliance dealer and actually measured the depth of a number of new washers and dryers.

The main problems have to do with the depth measurement (from front to back).  The problem comes in when you have a new dryer that is up to 4″ deeper than your old dryer, and you have a laundry space that either has doors enclosing it (often byfold doors), or you have an entry door that swings passed the laundry pair to open.  Don’t use your tape measure foolishly!  I suggest that if you are considering new laundry appliances that you  carefully measure the space you are putting them into, noting door locations and swing, write it down, and take it with you to the store (or website).  When measuring the new appliances, don’t just look at the front to back measurement of the finished top.  Make sure you include the depth of any sheet metal that protrudes from the back of the washer or dryer, which you may not see unless you are viewing the unit from the side.  Also, be aware that the door on the front may extend significantly from the top edge of the appliance, and including the “bowed” out design feature that many of them have, this can easily add 1 1/2 to 2″ of depth, which you will miss if you are only measuring the finished top.

The problem this causes has to do with dryer venting, and sometimes gas pipe location.  I will address solutions for this in my newsletter next month.

If you need help sooner than next month, or you just can’t wait for next month’s newsletter, go to my blog at peopleschoiceservices.com.  Adios!  Rich Johnson

Dirty Ducts and Dirty Deeds

8/13/10  Hurray!  For the first time I have ever seen it, some light has been shed on Air Duct Cleaning by the media.  Claudia Buck, of the Sacramento Bee, has hit the nail on the head in  a recent article about getting burned on air duct cleaning.  Now I’m not saying that Air Duct cleaning companies are bad people, I just dont think it solves a lot of problems.  The process is very similar to how, we at Peoples Choice, clean dryer vent systems.  Basically, a sort of snake-with-a-brush on the end is whirled through the air duct system, with a vacuum attached, loosening dust particles, then sucking them up.  On grossly dirty systems it will do a pretty good job, but getting near 100% clean will not happen.  First of all, your system must be secure and strong enough for the process itself.

We occasionally get calls from people requesting that their furnace/AC air ducts be cleaned.  I might preface this by saying that we DO do dryer vent cleaning, using the Duct Weasel System-a totally different issue.  At any rate, the question I ask first is “Why do you want to do it?”  Some of the common answers are:

1) Because the ducting is old and I don’t know what’s accumulated in it

2) Because we are having allergy or health symptoms that we are trying to solve

3) Because we are afraid of the germs that might be lurking in the ducts

4) Becase my house is overly dusty

Now, let me address each of these reasons, one by one.

1)  Old Ducts-If the air ducting in your house is that old, cleaning may be a waste of money.  If the ducting is old, it is also (most likely) poorly insulated or uninsulated; leaky at the joints; possibly not sound enough to stand the process of duct cleaning.  You would be better advised to put that cleaning money (typically $600 to $1200) towards installing new, well insulated, and properly sealed ductwork (typical 3 bedroom house $2500 to $4000).  Yes, it is expensive, but the option of throwing away $600 to $1200 ain’t so cool either.

2)  Health Reasons:  This may be one of the few reasons to try duct cleaning as at least a partial solution.  But it is still a NO in my opinion if you have old ducting, or ducting in poor condition.  Part of the equation will be how much money can you afford to risk at trying different approaches.  If you air ducting is less than ten years old, it might be worth trying, other wise, re-duct.  A couple of other things enter the picture in regards to health issues.  How about filtration on your heating/AC system?   Do you frequently change your filter (if you have allergy problems monthly changing your filter could help)?  On the subject of filtration, I must offer this caution:  If you go buy one of those fancy pants extra fine super duper filters, be aware that you could be drastically changing the air pressure in your furnace/AC, which could lead to functional problems in the system. . .just a note.  Beyond frequent filter changes (use the least expensive pleated filter for both performance and pressure) you could go to the extreme of filtration, which is a HEPA filtration system.  This would be an add-on to your heating/AC equipment, and typically requires you to run your furnace blower 100% of the time (Cost $1800 to $3000, plus the extra monthly expense of running the blower).

So, bottom line with the health reason is . . .maybe, maybe not.

3) Germs-Frankly if you are worried about germs in the ductwork and YOU think cleaning will help. . .go for it!  Even if it doesn’t kill all the germs it may provide you with peace of mind, which is priceless!

4)  Dusty house-If you have an overly dusty house, cleaning the ducts will not solve the problem.  Yes, you may have dust in your ductwork (no, you DO have dust in your ductwork-everyone does), but the ductwork is not necessarily the SOURCE of the dust.  Look at these things to cut down the dust:  1)  Seal/caulk your windows and doors (and install new windows for better seal and huge energy/sound benefits)  2) Have a “Blower Door Test” done by a reputable company.  Basically this process will test the entire envelope of your house for air leaks, and identify where you can repair or improve things, including leaks in you ductwork.  3) One source of dust that is many times overlooked is when outside air and dust come in at the base of your floor, between the 2×4 at the base of an exterior wall, and the slab or subfloor of the house.  Can ductwork cause dust? Well yes it could.  If you have poorly sealed ductwork (usually at ruptures or connectors) when the forced air passes this location, it literally sucks dust through the crack and into the air ducts that is then blown throughout the house.   What can you do?   If this is your problem, in most cases it would be wise to have new ducting installed.  Requirements for sealing ductwork have changed drastically over the last ten years, so you would end up with a much better system, both dust-wise and energy-wise.

In the end, my recommendation with regards to Air Duct cleaning is much the same as for whether or not to buy extended warranties (check out my previous blog on extended warranty):  If it will give you peace of mind, go for it, but for my money. . .no thank you.

This has been another mind bending moment with Rich Johnson of Peoples Choice.  Adios!

What is a Ductless Split AC or Heating System??

7/19/10  Have you heard the term Ductless AC system???  A blog reader asked that I address these systems that are fairly new in residential settings.  Ductless Split systems became prominent in office situations due to no space for air ductwork,  or wanting a small specific area to have control over the room temperature.  First, a reminder of how a “normal” split system AC works:  you have an outdoor condenser connected to your furnace by refrigerant tubing.  At you furnace is the AC coil.  The furnace provides the blower to circulate air (warm or cold) throughout your house.  So, from an AC perspective, the only purpose of the furnace is to provide a blower, and the ductwork to circulate the air.  The ductless split system basically eliminates the furnace and ductwork.  How does it do this???  In each area that you want AC (or heat, but I dont want to confuse things so I’ll stick with just AC for now) a mini coil with a built-in blower is mounted on the wall.  This indoor unit takes the place of the furnace mounted coil and ductwork.  Pretty niffty!

These ductless split systems are very energy efficient, and they allow you to regulate the temperature in up to four separate areas, with just one outdoor condenser, and four indoor units.

Benefits:  lower operating costs; can be used where ductwork is not possible (or too expensive); tightly controlled temperature areas

Downside:  The indoor units, mounted on the wall, are not necessarily pretty to look at (about 10″ high and 36 or so inches wide, hugn high on the wall.  Although less expensive than running new ducts AND AC, the equipment is generally a little more expensive than the standard split AC system.

I know there are other pros and cons, this is all my little brain could come up with at the moment.  They are a great problem solver for many applications.  I just want you to be aware of your choices, if and when you need AC.

Now, finally, the part about heating.  When purchased in the “Heat Pump” version, the ductless split systems will provide both heat and cooling.  The way they do it, in very basic terms, is by reversing the Air Conditioning, when heat is needed.   The only caution here is that it costs the same to heat as it does to cool.  In very moderate climates this may be ok, but in cold climates, the heat will be expensive to use.

Toodle Loo          Rich Johnson

Maytag Dishwasher Recall We Fix

6/4/10   By now, unless you are totally disconnected from the world, you have heard that Maytag has a recall on 1.7 million dishwashers that were sold between February 2006, and April, 2010.  this includes dishwashers branded under Maytag, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, and Crosley.  Now don’t go get in a big panic.  Yes there were about a dozen fires reported, but odds are pretty low that this will happen with you.  None-the-less, you do need to take action.  You can call us to do the free repair, which involves changing the heating element.  Maytag is also offering the option of a discount on a new dishwasher of $150 to $250 depending on which model you buy.

Maytag is a Whirlpool company.  My experience with them, as a warranty servicer for them, they do a good job of getting on top of this.  Prior to the public recall notice, we were pre-shipped a number of the repair kits to help with the initial appointments for repairs.

Like I said, don’t panic, but call or email us, or contact Maytag at 800-544-5513.  You can also start at the website for this problem which is:  www.repair.maytag.com

Here to help.  Rich Johnson

Install Carbon Monoxide Detector $29

2/17/10 Right now we are having a blowout special!  For just $29, we will install a carbon monoxide detector in your home or office anywhere from Santa Maria to Paso Robles, basically the entire Central Coast.  We want to make sure you stay safe, even if you dont want to (or can’t afford to replace your furnace).  This is basically the cost of the detector.  We want to introduce our great service to you, and heck, maybe someone needs some additional appliance, heating, or AC repair, which of course would be additional.  No pressure, though, if all you want is the CO detector, great, give us a call.  Call 543-3334, and Peoples Choice is at your door!  Rich Johnson

Tags: Carbon Monoxide, Central Coast, furnace, Heater, safe